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My tweets here are about travel, motorcycling, tent camping, bicycling
(mostly as a commuter), and things I find amusing. I tweet maybe up to
half a dozen times a day, on a really good day - usually much less.
Whilst playing around with Google Maps earlier this week, I found
Mount Hebo view point, which is less than 81 miles from our home. It
seemed like a good destination for a long day trip by motorcycle - it's
right on the border of Tillamook County and Yamhill County - two of our
very favorite counties in Oregon for motorcycle riding. So I did some
more looking around online and found National Forest Service Road 14
(NF-14 - also known as National Forest Development Road 14 and road
1400) from Bible Creek Road. It looked like the road went right up to
the view point, and though I couldn't find any reviews for the road
anywhere online, I surmised it would be doable by motorcycle since Mt.
Hebo used to be a military base. Still, I was worried: we have been on
Bible Creek Road
many times, going from Nestucca River Road to
Willamina (GREAT little restaurant there at the Wildwood Hotel), but
we've never seen a sign for a forest road - in fact, I hadn't even known
that was
Siuslaw
National Forest (I always thought the whole area was Tillamook
State Forest). Also, in national forests, NF roads are marked with a
brown street sign with the road number on it, but we'd never seen such
in our many times in that area.
Let's
jump to the chase for those looking to ride NF-14 to or from Mt. Hebo:
yes, it's doable by dual sport motorcycle (not just a dirt bike).
Stefan
was on his vintage Honda Africa Twin (from the family of models
never sold in the USA) and I was
on
my KLR. In fact, the first half of the gravel road, going West, is
good enough for a car for the first nine miles (not only a four-wheel
drive vehicle). It's way, way easier going up it, from Bible Creek Road,
than going down it from Mount Hebo. It's an excellent gravel road - at
least it was on July 1, 2018 - except for the half mile or more before
the mountain, which is dirt and large rocks and very steep - I cannot
imagine doing that part of the road when it's wet and I cannot imagine
doing it without having taken
an
off-road riding course earlier this year. The first nine miles are
very easy - easier than Dixie Mountain between Scappoose and North
Plains. Then, after that part, it is TOUGH. Be ready to stand on your
bike for that - and, perhaps, the entire thing.
Note: the road, as it gets closer to Mt. Hebo, is impassable in the
winter because of snow. I wouldn't ride any of this until the rains stop
in the PDX area (usually in late June) - there will be a LOT of mud in
the last 5-9 miles of this road, getting closer to Mt. Hebo.
There is no sign for the start of NF-14 from Bible Creek Road. It's
18 miles from the turnoff of Bible Creek Road to the Mt. Hebo viewpoint,
and it took me 90 minutes to do that 18 miles - it would take someone
who is an excellent rider probably 40 minutes. From Forest Grove, Oregon
to Mt. Hebo and back was 161 miles total, and with our stops for rests,
lunch, photos and ice-cream, plus 30 minutes backtracking because of a
closed road, it took us 6.5 hours. For a better adventure rider on NF-14
going faster and taking no pauses, and taking out the detour on
Nestucca, this entire day trip would take an hour - two hours less than
me. If you are coming from Portland, budget your time accordingly.
The start of NF-14 is 3.7 miles from the junction of Nestucca River Road
and Bible Creek Road, or less than 1.4 miles from the junction of SW
Bald Mountain Road and Bible Creek Road, or 13 miles all the way from
Willamina.
Before I begin my in-depth ride report, let me remind everyone that I'm
not Little Miss ADVRider by any stretch of the imagination. Standing for
hours and hours while navigating treacherous terrain just to say,
completely exhausted, "Wahoo, look what I did!" is not my idea of fun.
That said, I
love visiting ghost towns and beautiful vistas, and
camping in remote areas, and all of those are reached by gravel roads.
As I've told
Stefan many times, as long as there is a great payoff and long
rest at the end, and he's patient with me, I'm up for most gravel road
rides. I'm so proud to have ridden state road 279 to 142 in Moab, Utah -
part of it is also known as
Potash
Road. It would have been my greatest triumph as a motorcycle rider
had it not been for
my
crash on Shaffer Switchbacks. And I'm so proud that, two years
later, I took
the
back road from Jordan Valley, Oregon into Silver City, Idaho - I
still get looks of awe from people who know what that 25 miles of road
is like (the main road is all gravel too, but MUCH easier). Heck, I'm in
awe that I rode my motorcycle
down
into the Dungeness Forks Campground in Olympic National Forest.
But none of these roads would have been worth it just to do the roads -
I was looking for a payoff at the end: a gorgeous vista or a ghost town
or a campground. 30 miles of really difficult dirt and gravel road is my
limit for a day. I say all this because "real" ADV Riders balk at my
road descriptions (and that I dare to even ride a KLR). If that's you -
just stop reading now, because the following won't be your experience at
all.
Ride report:
We left our home at 9:30 in the morning. I wanted to ride NF-14 from
Bible Creek Road because I knew that would be mostly a ride up, and I do
MUCH better on gravel when I'm going up. We took 47 through Gaston,
Yamhill and Carlton, a ride we've done oh-so-many times, and then headed
onto Nestucca River Road. We had taken that road all the way from Bible
Creek Road just the week before, but this weekend, it was closed just
after the Fan Creek Campground, so we had to head back the way we came a
few miles and take Bald Mountain Road and then Bible Creek Road. As I
noted earlier, there is no sign for the start of NF-14 from Bible Creek
Road. Immediately after making the turn on NF-14, you come to a fork in
the road. When we were there, there was
a
brown road sign at the fork that said "Falls." We had no idea what
that meant. I hope it wasn't a warning to motorcycle riders. Stefan's
GPS said to go to the right, so that's what we did. After 3.5 miles, we
came to another fork, which had a sign - to the right, 1.5 miles, was
something called Niagra Falls, and to the left, 9 miles, was a lake.
Later, I read that
the
Oregon version of Niagra Falls is actually quite lovely - we will
visit some other time. Had we gone right, we would have ended up on
National Forest Service Road 8533, and that after 8.5 miles would have
taken us back out to Nestucca River Road (so you could make the ride we
did five miles longer if you started from NF-8533, plus, see Niagra
Falls if you have time to hike).
We went left at the aforementioned junction to continue on NF-14
toward Mt. Hebo and, for the next 9 miles, the road was fine for me -
some potholes, but, otherwise, no hairpin turns, no severe inclines or
declines, no dramatic drop offs. It was an all around very pleasant
ride, and I was once again so happy I'd taken an off-road riding class -
I really enjoy standing up while riding except for being out of shape
and needing to sit down and take a break every so often. We noticed a
few good places for rough camping! The road for 9 miles would be
absolutely passable by our little Honda Fit.
We stopped after about 9 miles at a big, flat turnoff on the right where
the gravel to service the road is stored. It's such a big mound, and has
been there so long, that grass and small trees are growing on top of it.
Behind it is a beautiful sheer cliff and fantastic rough camping spot.
In front of it, unfortunately, is a spot where people with guns shoot
targets. I HATE people that practice shoot on public lands in areas not
formally designated for such. They ruin the natural sounds and solitude
with the noise, they leave crap everywhere (clean up after yourselves,
assholes), and they shoot road sides, making them unreadable - and we
really need those signs when we're in the wilderness. Luckily, that day,
there were no assholes with guns, so we were able to enjoy the peace and
beauty. At one point, I lost sight of Stefan and, because of the cliff,
had a
Picnic at Hanging Rock moment - that was creepy.
Otherwise, great place to stop, and I needed to stop - I was exhausted.
I was thrilled that we had met no cars at all on the road, and none had
been behind us. I was also thrilled at how manageable the road had been
up to this point, 9 miles in. But I also knew the road was going to
eventually start going up and not stop until the top of Mount Hebo. And
the road looked like that incline was going to start right after this
rest stop. And I was right: up it went. Up and up and up, and became
more challenging with steeper inclines and shorter terms.
12.5 miles in, we came to another junction. To the left was NF-1428, and
this leads to a lake and an official National Forest campground:
South
Lake Dispersed Area. I would love to camp there sometime, via
motorcycle - but the thought of doing this road loaded down with full
panniers kinda freaks me out... plus, I would hate it if the campground
turned out to be full of a bunch of let's-shoot-stuff-for-fun gun nuts.
We paused at that junction in the road, just for a couple of minutes,
before continuing on NF-14, and after that junction, things get crazy
steep on the road, there's much more dirt and big rocks, and there is NO
where to stop or pull over. We met an SUV coming down and I was so glad
it came where it did, because had it been anywhere else, before or
after, there was no where for him to get over and there was no where or
no way for me to stop on such a steep incline. Also, the road was
becoming more dirt than gravel and I was starting to think we were no
longer on NF-14. I powered right by the SUV, probably with a look of
terror on my face. About 14.5 miles into the NF-14 ride, we finally
completed the worst part of the road, and came to another junction and a
flat part. I was SO happy I'd chosen to do this road from the West,
because there is NO WAY I could have done those last nine miles to the
East, downhill, on such a steep road. This junction felt like the
summit: to the right was a wooden fence along a bit of paved road and,
to the left, was gravel. I thought we were supposed to go right, but we
weren't sure, because shrubbery blocked our view, so rode Stefan on
without me - he wasn't gone 30 seconds before he came back and said he'd
come to a gate and there was no more road on the other side. Later, I
learned that that's a rarely used access road to the tower for radio
station KTIL FM.
We went left and could see that this part of the road was a once
frequently-used gravel road, with cement barriers crumbling on the side.
I got a
flashback
to Chornobyl (Chernobyl) and Ukraine. Warning if you are riding
this: stay in the middle of the road, because there are a couple of
motorcycle-swallowing holes near those crumbling barriers. We came to an
open area with plenty of wide parking on the grass on either side of the
road and a guy was parked there with his kids. Was this the top? The
view point? I wasn't sure, so I kept riding. About 17 miles up from
Bible Creek Road (my speedometer calculation said 18), we finally came
to the Mount Hebo Viewpoint - it's to the right of the road from this
direction, behind you as the paved road appears in front of you, and
VERY easy to miss because it's behind you as you summit from NF-14.
The site you see here -
all
of the cell phone towers - is not the spot where the Mount Hebo
radar array stood - that's out on
the
lookout you see beyond the information sign. The radars were
serviced by the Mt. Hebo Air Forest Station (AFS) once upon a time.
Apparently, it's usually cloudy and foggy on Mt. Hebo in summer, and it
was the day we visited, though we did get some breaks in the fog for
some ocean views. If you go, try to stay for a full hour, so you might
get
some
breaks in the fog as well. Even fogged in, it's a neat site - a
piece of Cold War history. For the second time, I got a flashback to my
time in Ukraine. It felt so similar.
We
ate the lunch we brought (egg and cheese sandwiches, canned pineapple,
and nut bars) and were thankful when the guy in the pickup who was
running his engine in order to stay warm decided to leave. And then the
other family in the other pickup truck left - the driver burped a lot.
We
had the entire site to ourselves for an hour or more. It's a nice,
easy hike out to the site of the radar array and back.
After exploring the area, we got back on the bikes and headed down the
paved, winding road to state road 22 - less than 8 miles and very
beautiful. Unfortunately, we missed the former site of the actual Mt.
Hebo Air Force Base - if there was a sign, we missed it. In fact, all
the signs on the road are facing people coming up the road, not people
going down. We did see the back of the sign for Hebo Lake Campground.
Then we headed South on State Road 22, also called the Three Rivers
Highway. It's really beautiful, but I think a lot of motorcyclists miss
it because they are so focused on the over-rated 101. Had I been less
tired, I would have stopped at
Fort
Yamhill State Heritage Area along the way - we've never been. But
we pushed on to Willamina, both in need of a sugary snack to get us all
the way home. We stopped for gas in McMinnville and then were back at
our house at 4:20 in the afternoon, greeting a very hungry Lucinda the
dog who was quite frustrated to have been left behind.
And now a word from my husband: